COMMENTS FROM SOME OF THE PAST GUESTS OF THE HOTEL

TWO FOR THE ROAD: A TUSCAN HOLIDAY
Discovering la dolce vita in the heart of Chianti
By Betty Jo Turner
The first thing senior editor Joe Rusz said when he came back from his visit to Italy for the press launch of the Cayman S last year was "Ciao bella!" Something about Joe's description of the car, the Porsche-perfect twisty roads in the hilly countryside of Chianti, and naked travel envy led us to retrace his tire tracks in search of this year's first Two for the Road destination. From the hectic frenzy of Florence, the drive to Hotel Villa la Grotta is a decompressing journey into the heart of Chianti and into the spirit of rural Tuscany. Villas the color of the earth surrounded by sentinel cypresses, olive groves and vineyards underline the profound connections between landscape and architecture in this ancient land. At each turn, the roads became smaller and less crowded-from autostrada to divided four-lane, to two-lane, to what should have been one curvy lane but did service as two, eventually to a paved but tiny serpentine track that was barely a white line on a detailed map, always hugging the hills that would lead us toward Gaiole, then turn us toward Castello di Brolio. Finally, around the bend from Brolio a driveway, no, a dirt road and at the crossroads at the top, our destination. Hotel Villa la Grotta, with its vine covered rosy stonework and terracotta roof, seems to grow organically out of the chalky, rocky soil that sustains vineyards in every direction. At the top of the hill behind it stands the imposing Castello di Brolio. Here is where the Baron Ricasoli first defined what a Chianti Classico wine should be more than a hundred years ago. La Grotta itself traces its origins to the ninth century, when it served as a way house where visiting nobles rested their animals and spiffed up before climbing the hill to present themselves at Brolio. By the late 1990s, it was little more than a ruin. Enter Philipp Elsaesser, a Swiss architect and landscape designer, who had a different vision of what La Grotta could be. In May of 2002 it opened as a jewel of a small hotel and restaurant, restored and extended with Tuscan understatement, landscaped with lavender and rosemary, fitted with indoor and outdoor pools. There are 12 supremely comfortable rooms and every view is magnificent. In good weather (we didn't see any other kind), lunch is served al fresco under a 300-year-old walnut tree on the patio. Presiding over this little piece of paradise is Doogie Morley-Bodle, an attractive outgoing English woman who fell in love with Italy 17 years ago. A Cordon Bleu chef, she ran a catering company called the Chianti Kitchen for some years, then assisted famous children's author Leo Lionni write his autobiography, Between Worlds. At Villa La Grotta she manages a tiny staff so engaging and friendly that soon there are no strangers. Rosario Sorbello is the man behind the perfect cappuccino at breakfast and at night in the restaurant he is wine steward and attentive waiter, serving up the exquisite cuisine of Giorgio Trovato, the master chef at La Terrazza, Villa La Grotta's first class restaurant. Pierluigi (Gigi) Gonnelli manages the bookkeeping at the villa, but he is also the go-to person for travel advice for a day of adventure in the countryside. Over coffee every morning, Gigi is there, yellow highlighter in hand, ready to send us to a perched village for lunch or into Siena for the day. You choose the mission: a castle, a village, a market, an abbey. Gigi's got the plan. The ultimate insider, he's a native of nearby Radda in Chianti, where he says he sleeps in the bedroom he was born in. Adding to the ambiance is a quartet of cats named Beckham, Campbell and Mimmo, named for soccer heroes, and Soffiatino, a spooky little black kitty who often stands guard on the rooftop of the restaurant. Doogie rescued him from a hunter's trap. When soccer giant David Beckham heard a cat had been named after him, he visited the villa to be introduced. A wild pheasant named Freddie rounds out the menagerie. "He's as big as a turkey," says Doogie. Freddie roams the vineyards, but recognizes his name and occasionally comes when called. Our arrival at the villa coincided with a moment of crisis. In a complicated legal maneuver, landed gentry in the area were making an effort to take the hotel from Morley-Bodle. While we were happily exploring Siena, soaking up the Piazza del Campo, visiting the Duomo, fingering gorgeous Tuscan ceramics and peeping longingly into the Wine Library of Italy, housed in an old Medici fortress, three judges were rendering their decision. We tiptoed back to Villa La Grotta that afternoon filled with foreboding. How much chance would a foreign woman have against folks that had owned large chunks of Italy for time out of mind? Good news came as we were picnicking under the walnut tree. On Thursday evening, Doogie invited all her guests to share a celebratory dinner. With all but Giorgio and Rosario (who were cooking and serving) sitting at the same long table, we toasted the villa and listened to stories far into the night. Don Antonio Nardi, a distinguished old gentlemen who reminded us a little bit of Spencer Tracy, arrived just in time for the first toast. With Gigi translating, we learned that he had lived in the ruins of the villa during World War II. Giorgio ended the meal with fireworks, a deep chocolate concoction garnished with green apple slices and fine threads of chili. Chocolate with a kick! Days were given to exploration. Roaming through Radda, Volpaia where a highly ornamental bumblebee had us convinced we were looking at a half-size hummingbird, market day at Castelnuovo Berardenga. The only false start was an innervating day trip to Florence. Note for next time: do Florence separately from within the city and with a private guide. The best part of that day was the drive back to La Grotta, passing little trucks laden with grapes, savoring the curves on the empty road home. One of Gigi's finest suggestions was a drive to the serenely beautiful Abbazia de Monte Oliveto Maggiore, founded in 1313 by Benedictine monks, about 20 miles southeast of Siena. From the abbey it was a short but energetic drive to the hillside town of Montalcino with its 13th century walls and fortress, home of one of Italy's most celebrated wines, the powerful and muscular Brunello di Montalcino. A glass at lunch on the piazza was a chance to sample this Tuscan treasure on its own terroir. The evenings were spent in the capable hands of Rosario and Giorgio and with Rosario's good advice we learned to love a Chianti Classico called Poggiopiano. A week in Tuscany is not enough. For every lovely view, every fine meal, every medieval village, every challenging highway, there's another and another and another left to explore. A Cayman S could be just the right Porsche to have for a month at Villa la Grotta.

"We had the most wonderful days here in "La Grotta", lovely hotel, good food and most friendly and charming hosts, we are very sorry to leave."
Anton Croy, Austria

"A wonderful house, surroundings, friendly people, good cook! So what do you want more for a lovely holiday? Thanks! We will be back"
Henk en Christien P. Belgium

"It’s been wonderful to relax and unwind at "Villa La Grotta" the most beautiful place in Tuscany. I’m looking forward to my next visit. Thank you for a really lovely time.
Helen Dunkley, London

"Splendido soggiorno nella Grotta dei miracoli!"
Roberto Barzanti, Italy

"Nice holiday! Drank too much, ate too much and sung along to Frank Sinatra at breakfast…what more could you ask for?"
Paul, Katie & Molly C. London

"It was such a marvelous place to find – a real discovery – wonderful human and charming hosts, food, atmosphere and what else can I say? Our heartfelt thanks for all your kindness and hospitality! Much success and our fondest wishes"
Noemi & Daniel P. Los Angeles

"Thank you so much for making us feel so welcome and at home. Our stay at "Villa La Grotta" has made our first visit to Tuscany that much more enjoyable and we are well and truly relaxed! See you soon."
Hugh and Carrie G. London

"Wir hatten wunderschöne Tage in Ihrem bezaubernden Hotel und der Abend auf der Terrasse bei gutem Wein und Dinner ist unvergesslich. Vielen lieben Dank sagen"
Ursula und G. Naumann, Cologne.

"A slice of heaven, so beautifully orchestrated! So many compliments to you and your incredible staff. The service has been immaculate. I have never eaten pasta like yours - I shall be back for more!
Georgina M. London

"The most relaxing week end in a long time….Between the view and the food, we were just the happiest guests!"
Mario and Anna L. Rome

"A perfect place to relax and to forget the stress back home. Beautiful rooms, wonderful service and incredible Italian food and of course the peaceful landscape of Tuscany - Stay as you are!"
Rita and Greg A. Switzerland